Sunday, July 19, 2009
17 TO 19 JULY SOUTH COAST LOCTUDY AND BENODET
Our first port of call on the S coast was a lovely little fishing port called Loctudy. Fish shops are on the quay and the fish is the freshest you'll ever find. Wonderful lobster and crevettes.
Last step in this weeks journey was the shortest - only 5 miles to Benodet - again in the rain! But Benodet (actually we're in Sainte Marine directly across the river Odet from benodet) is a lovely place. Must be a favourite for Sweden Yachts as we met another 3 SY owners here. Proposed we should have a SY regatta here next year! We'll leave ALMA here for 10 days as we go to Les Carroz in the French Alps to see the Tour which is going through the neighbouring village on Wednesday (I should explain that we're keen followers of the Tour and each days sailing is planned to get us into port by about 4pm so we can rush into the nearest bar with a tv and watch the end of that day's stage of the tour!).
So next update won't be for a couple of weeks. Hope your enjoying the summer.
Best wishes
Helen and Iain
Our first port of call on the S coast was a lovely little fishing port called Loctudy. Fish shops are on the quay and the fish is the freshest you'll ever find. Wonderful lobster and crevettes.
Last step in this weeks journey was the shortest - only 5 miles to Benodet - again in the rain! But Benodet (actually we're in Sainte Marine directly across the river Odet from benodet) is a lovely place. Must be a favourite for Sweden Yachts as we met another 3 SY owners here. Proposed we should have a SY regatta here next year! We'll leave ALMA here for 10 days as we go to Les Carroz in the French Alps to see the Tour which is going through the neighbouring village on Wednesday (I should explain that we're keen followers of the Tour and each days sailing is planned to get us into port by about 4pm so we can rush into the nearest bar with a tv and watch the end of that day's stage of the tour!).
So next update won't be for a couple of weeks. Hope your enjoying the summer.
Best wishes
Helen and Iain
15 AND 16 JULY DUARNENEZ AND OFF TO THE SOUTH COAST
On Wed the weather settled down enough for us to move on to Duarnenez (about 30 miles) although the first part of the sail as we headed out of the Camaret bay was quite rough as there was still a significant swell after the storm. Surprising how long it takes for the sea to settle after strong winds. Duarnenez was interesting - it used to be the world's leading city in sardine exports in the 19th century and still claims to be the place where the best canned sardines are to be found. Duarnenez sardines are fried, dried, and then put in a can ("préparées a l'ancienne"), whereas most other countries processing consists of steam cooking once the fish is canned. Sadly the fishing of sardines in the bay has died out as the sardines just stopped coming - not surprising really when you consider the vast quantities that were caught each year.
We'd decided to visit Duarnenez to see two friends who work in one of the restuarants in Flaine in the Alps where we ski. They were shocked, but I think delighted, that we'd made the effort to visit them in Duarnenez. I don't think they see many UK visitors in Duarnenez!
Thursday the weather forecast was just good enough for a major part of the journey - from Duarnenez through an infamous channel called the Raz de Sein and round the SW corner of Brittany onto the south coast. It was a long day, 64M, and as the wind was from the SE, almost dead ahead, it took us nearly 12 hours. But finally we were in south Brittany. The weather is supposed to be significantly better on the south coast. Well it wasn't this week. its been wet, very windy and quite cool. Grim in fact. We'll keep heading south until it gets better.
On Wed the weather settled down enough for us to move on to Duarnenez (about 30 miles) although the first part of the sail as we headed out of the Camaret bay was quite rough as there was still a significant swell after the storm. Surprising how long it takes for the sea to settle after strong winds. Duarnenez was interesting - it used to be the world's leading city in sardine exports in the 19th century and still claims to be the place where the best canned sardines are to be found. Duarnenez sardines are fried, dried, and then put in a can ("préparées a l'ancienne"), whereas most other countries processing consists of steam cooking once the fish is canned. Sadly the fishing of sardines in the bay has died out as the sardines just stopped coming - not surprising really when you consider the vast quantities that were caught each year.
We'd decided to visit Duarnenez to see two friends who work in one of the restuarants in Flaine in the Alps where we ski. They were shocked, but I think delighted, that we'd made the effort to visit them in Duarnenez. I don't think they see many UK visitors in Duarnenez!
Thursday the weather forecast was just good enough for a major part of the journey - from Duarnenez through an infamous channel called the Raz de Sein and round the SW corner of Brittany onto the south coast. It was a long day, 64M, and as the wind was from the SE, almost dead ahead, it took us nearly 12 hours. But finally we were in south Brittany. The weather is supposed to be significantly better on the south coast. Well it wasn't this week. its been wet, very windy and quite cool. Grim in fact. We'll keep heading south until it gets better.
12 to 14 JULY BREST AND CAMARET
A mostly wet and windy week. At times very windy and we had to stay put Tuesday and Thursday as gales went through. However gave us a chance to catch up with emails/admin and have a relaxing couple of days.
On Monday we'd left Brest for the short trip out of the Rade de Brest and round the headland to Camaret. Another former fishing port but now converted to tourism. But having a tough time this year - headline in the local paper was Ou sont les Anglais?! The poor Euro:Sterling exchange rate and the gloomy economic situation are obviously having an effect on the area as more English (the biggest group of foreign visitors to the region) choose to holiday at home.
We had several interesting surprises in Camaret. Firstly, a famous old (1898) classic wooden yacht called Pen Duick moored alongside us.Quite a contrast between the boats and I'd have loved to go out for a sail on Pen Duick but for cruising I prefer the comforts of ALMA. Pen Duick belonged previously to one of the most famous sailors of all times, a Breton Eric Tabarly. He was lost overboard tragically in 1998 in the Irish Sea.
Second surprise was the arrival of the British navy - well 4 patrol boats. They were on their way back to UK from Spain but came into Camaret to shelter from the storm. I was surprised we still had even 4 boats.
Third surprise was a dolphin arriving just outside the port - literally across the pontoon from where we were berthed. Seems everyone was keen to shelter from the storm.
A mostly wet and windy week. At times very windy and we had to stay put Tuesday and Thursday as gales went through. However gave us a chance to catch up with emails/admin and have a relaxing couple of days.
On Monday we'd left Brest for the short trip out of the Rade de Brest and round the headland to Camaret. Another former fishing port but now converted to tourism. But having a tough time this year - headline in the local paper was Ou sont les Anglais?! The poor Euro:Sterling exchange rate and the gloomy economic situation are obviously having an effect on the area as more English (the biggest group of foreign visitors to the region) choose to holiday at home.
We had several interesting surprises in Camaret. Firstly, a famous old (1898) classic wooden yacht called Pen Duick moored alongside us.Quite a contrast between the boats and I'd have loved to go out for a sail on Pen Duick but for cruising I prefer the comforts of ALMA. Pen Duick belonged previously to one of the most famous sailors of all times, a Breton Eric Tabarly. He was lost overboard tragically in 1998 in the Irish Sea.
Second surprise was the arrival of the British navy - well 4 patrol boats. They were on their way back to UK from Spain but came into Camaret to shelter from the storm. I was surprised we still had even 4 boats.
Third surprise was a dolphin arriving just outside the port - literally across the pontoon from where we were berthed. Seems everyone was keen to shelter from the storm.
Sunday, July 12, 2009
Sailing into the Rade de Brest (the large natural harbour/bay outside the port of Brest) was a special experience – not only because of the beauty of the scenery and the exceptional natural harbour (with the entrance, the “Goulet de Brest” less than a mile wide) butt also because of the naval history here, especially the English blockade of Brest for years on end from 1803 to 1815 during the Napoleonic wars. The blockade prevented the French warships getting out to sea greatly aiding England’s naval supremacy and strangling French supplies. The English ships had to patrol in all weathers in an area with strong tides and dangerous rocks – what wonderful sailors and tough seamen they must have been. We had a kindly wind, calm seas and no guns firing at us so really quite an easy entrance!
Now in Brest doing jobs – just like being at work, there are always problems to solve and jobs to do! (perhaps it’s best always to expect to have to deal with problems rather than expect a perfect world and be disheartened when problems arise!!) Currently, I need to resolve the chafing halyard I mentioned above, determine why the battery charger doesn’t always come on automatically, fix the electronic drain pump, find out what’s making a curious buzzing sound when the engine is on as well as the normal cleaning, polishing etc etc. I used to get paid to work this hard!! Also resting up after a tiring week and planning next stage of the journey from Brest to the south coast of Brittany. Will let you know next week how the next leg of our adventure goes.
Best wishes
Iain and Helen
Now in Brest doing jobs – just like being at work, there are always problems to solve and jobs to do! (perhaps it’s best always to expect to have to deal with problems rather than expect a perfect world and be disheartened when problems arise!!) Currently, I need to resolve the chafing halyard I mentioned above, determine why the battery charger doesn’t always come on automatically, fix the electronic drain pump, find out what’s making a curious buzzing sound when the engine is on as well as the normal cleaning, polishing etc etc. I used to get paid to work this hard!! Also resting up after a tiring week and planning next stage of the journey from Brest to the south coast of Brittany. Will let you know next week how the next leg of our adventure goes.
Best wishes
Iain and Helen
Monday sailed to Lezardrieux past Ile de Brehat – thru another minefield of rocks. Had an incident when a French boat bumped into us twice as he tried (badly) to moor up. Fortunately no serious damage I think but not impressed. But just like their car driving in France, a few bumps while sailing seem to be just accepted as fair game! In a bar in Lezardrieux noticed another particularly French approach – this time re enforcement of Regs prohibiting smoking in bars etc. A sign in the bar indicated smoking is allowed only by those having something to eat or drink!!
Tuesday we had a new experience – we set out about 0800 and were back in the same port by noon! Early weather forecast had not been good but I decided to go out and see how bad things were. When we got out of the estuary the seas were quite rough and later forecast was for gusts up to 35knots – time to turn around!!
Over the next 3 days we sailed from Lezardrieux to Trebeurden, L’AberWrach (passed the world’s tallest lighthouse Ile Vierge) and Brest. Wonderful coast – esp the rose granite rocks. We had quite fresh winds and as always along this coast strong tides so we made fast passage times even although mostly the wind was from dead ahead and we had to tack upwind (why does the wind always seem to be blowing directly from where one wants to go?!). Weather mixed but one excellent sunrise (conveniently on the day we got up at 0500!!). Uneventful passage past Ushant and through the notorious Chenal du Four but sobering to see so many shipwrecks (literally hundreds) marked on charts. In bad weather (which it gets often) this would not be a good place to be. The worst disaster was I believe the sinking of the Drummond Castle in fog in 1896 – only 3 survivors from 246 mostly women and children who had been evacuated from South Africa during the Boer war.
Tuesday we had a new experience – we set out about 0800 and were back in the same port by noon! Early weather forecast had not been good but I decided to go out and see how bad things were. When we got out of the estuary the seas were quite rough and later forecast was for gusts up to 35knots – time to turn around!!
Over the next 3 days we sailed from Lezardrieux to Trebeurden, L’AberWrach (passed the world’s tallest lighthouse Ile Vierge) and Brest. Wonderful coast – esp the rose granite rocks. We had quite fresh winds and as always along this coast strong tides so we made fast passage times even although mostly the wind was from dead ahead and we had to tack upwind (why does the wind always seem to be blowing directly from where one wants to go?!). Weather mixed but one excellent sunrise (conveniently on the day we got up at 0500!!). Uneventful passage past Ushant and through the notorious Chenal du Four but sobering to see so many shipwrecks (literally hundreds) marked on charts. In bad weather (which it gets often) this would not be a good place to be. The worst disaster was I believe the sinking of the Drummond Castle in fog in 1896 – only 3 survivors from 246 mostly women and children who had been evacuated from South Africa during the Boer war.
Left St Malo Sunday 5th July and arrived in Brest Fri 10th – distance of 225M approx so a busy week sailing with some long days, quite windy, great scenery and terrific experience. Doug and his son Edward were on board with us. Sadly Lesley and Simon had to call off as Lesley’s Mum was very ill. Hope her Mum gets better soon and hope they’ll be able to join us later. Difficult time as parents get elderly.
We arrived in St Malo on overnight ferry from Portsmouth – great way to cross the channel! Had dinner on board, Doug and Edward watched a movie (Angels and Demons) and had a good nights sleep. Got boat ready on Sunday – including having yet another attempt to solve a problem I have with the main halyard chafing (rope that hauls up the mainsail – extremely expensive rope so not one I want to get damaged!) and set out around 1730. Fairly breezy and a strong cross tide as we left St Malo and threaded our way thru the maze of rocks offshore so lots of concentration to make sure we dodged the rocks! Once we were out of the channel we had a lively sail in beautiful evening conditions until wind died off Pointe de La Latte on which there is the most magnificent castle – used in the Kirk Douglas/Tony Curtis film The Vikings – the first film I ever saw!! From there (about half way) we motored to St Quay Portrieux. Fortunately we’d been there a few weeks ago, as we arrived from St Malo in the dark (about 2330) and again (as in most places in N Brittany) the approaches are littered with rocks. Difficult to see the unlit mark to keep us off the N end off the reef but moon was bright enough for us to make it out as we got closer and then we followed the marked channel into the port.
We arrived in St Malo on overnight ferry from Portsmouth – great way to cross the channel! Had dinner on board, Doug and Edward watched a movie (Angels and Demons) and had a good nights sleep. Got boat ready on Sunday – including having yet another attempt to solve a problem I have with the main halyard chafing (rope that hauls up the mainsail – extremely expensive rope so not one I want to get damaged!) and set out around 1730. Fairly breezy and a strong cross tide as we left St Malo and threaded our way thru the maze of rocks offshore so lots of concentration to make sure we dodged the rocks! Once we were out of the channel we had a lively sail in beautiful evening conditions until wind died off Pointe de La Latte on which there is the most magnificent castle – used in the Kirk Douglas/Tony Curtis film The Vikings – the first film I ever saw!! From there (about half way) we motored to St Quay Portrieux. Fortunately we’d been there a few weeks ago, as we arrived from St Malo in the dark (about 2330) and again (as in most places in N Brittany) the approaches are littered with rocks. Difficult to see the unlit mark to keep us off the N end off the reef but moon was bright enough for us to make it out as we got closer and then we followed the marked channel into the port.
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