Wednesday, June 17, 2015
6th to 12th June
We began our return journey on Saturday and stopped again in milazzo on the north coast of Sicily. Its a very industrial/commercial town but once you enter past the oil refinery and the seven or eight ferries coming and going, it has a good small marina in a corner of the commercial port. It also has a very impressive castle overlooking the town. It also has the wonderful restaurant we’d been to previously! Had another great dinner there while watching the European Cup Final. Only disappointment was that Juventus lost so the atmosphere became a little subdued - otherwise I think we’d have been in the middle of some lively celebrations!
On Sunday after exploring the castle (free entry on the first Sunday of every month - made it seem extra special!), we continued to Reggio Calabria again. Interesting passage through the straits (which at the narrowest point are only about a mile and a half wide). We crossed the traffic lanes after the Queen Victoria had gone through southbound. We crossed just far enough ahead of The Empress of the Seas (heading north) to get to the inshore zone on the mainland side. Safely across we found ourselves surrounded by several sword fishing boats which all changed course frequently and unpredictably at top speed as they competed for the best fishing areas. Two of the boats seemed to be having a raging argument as they drove at full speed side by side. We stayed out of the way. We then passed the Queen Elizabeth as it headed north. Finally we negotiated our way through the ferries crossing between Messina and Reggio - mostly we just slowed down to let them cross as they are almost certainly not going to slow down or alter course for us - the rules of the road seem to be simply keep out of the way. Fair enough.
We moored up in one of the small marinas in Reggio. I should explain that this took 3 attempts. After calling on the VHF as we approached Reggio, the Coastguard answer to tell us to phone the marina (they gave us the phone number). We phoned and he confirmed he had a berth available for us. So we went into the marina which I’d been into on our northward journey. Only to be waved away and (it seemed) being told to moor on the outside of the marina wall. Now this made some sense as the Coastguard were moored there and there was a spare place and it was well sheltered from the swell that was coming into the marina. However, just as we managed to moor the mariners appeared again to indicate we couldn’t moor there we had to go to another small marina at the southern end of the (large) port. We moored there without difficulty. We need to learn some Italian!
Reggio turned out to be much better than expected. It has a rather bad reputation - partly as this is a relatively poor region (and sailing along this coast it does look third world) but also it is reported to be a major recruiting ground for the mafia. However, there was a festival on and the place was buzzing (and absolutely stacked full - haven’t seen such bad traffic since the m25!). Lots going on so fun to walk around, especially along the wonderful promenade. But our primary goal was the Museum which has the Riace Bronze statues (c450bc) on display. These were found in 1972 just off the south coast by a scuba diver but their background is mostly unknown. However, even although we’ve seen a lot of old stones and statues in our travels, I’d say these are truly quite exceptional. Definitely worth seeing if you happen to be passing through Calabria - although that’s probably most unlikely so sadly these are probably not as well known/recognised as they should be. Would be great if they could be shown from time to time in Florence or Rome (which they were initially before Calabria decided they should be kept in Reggio).
From Reggio we had a stressful trip south to Riposto as a thunderstorm developed and we had lightening striking the sea just to the north of us. We didn’t linger and were glad to get into port. The next day started bright and clear but again by the afternoon we had another thunderstorm with strong gusts of wind from almost every direction and lightening all around us. By evening as we entered the magnificent bay at Siracusa it had all cleared and we had a beautifully quiet night at anchor. We’ve always enjoyed Siracusa - great market (probably the best we’ve seen anywhere for fresh fish and vegetables), lovely cafes and restaurants and simply steeped in history.
Our final stop in Sicily before crossing back to Malta was the small fishing village of Marzamemi. This is a curious place as it seems a bit down at heel and for most of the day seems asleep. However in the evening people appear from somewhere and there are lots of bars and restaurants, live music in the square, its all happening. And the restaurant we’d been recommended turned out to be fantastic. Lovely surprise in a place that you wouldn’t think from first appearances was worth even visiting.
We’d planned to return to Malta at the weekend but the forecast for friday was very good while over the weekend it was expected to be strong winds and possibly head winds. So we left 0630 Friday and after a great sail, 7 or 8 knots most of the way once the wind got up, we were entering Malta’s Grand harbour by 1530.
Great first few weeks of the sailing season. Hopefully more to report later.
Have a great summer.
Best wishes
Helen and Iain
29th May to 5th June
After David, Doug and Andy jumped ship on Friday morning, Helen and I headed back to Lipari. Helen’s cruise started with a beat into 16 to 18 knots so it was quite a lively (but exhilarating) sail. We then continued to Salina and liked it so much we stayed 3 days! Great restaurants! But also as we’d arranged to meet friends Phil and Caroline (from Provence) there. They were cruising on another boat and we persuaded them to visit Salina. Great to catch up with them. Phil has sailed on ALMA several times and we’re both Endeavour sailors (the replica of Cook’s ship) (and fans of everything nautical/historical so have endless chats!).
Next stop Filcudi - second most westerly of the Aeolian islands. Not much happening on Filicudi. Main attraction is the remains of a bronze age village. Didn’t appear as if much has happened since but if you wanted somewhere extremely quiet to hide away this might be just the place.
Panarea is a significant contrast - equally attractive island but with much more life. The next Capri some say (well residents of Panarea). But apparently the wealthy escape from Milan and rome to relax in their villas on Panarea. And it is quite chic with some very good restaurants but yet delightfully retains its relaxed and unspoilt feel.
2015 ALMA'S AEOLIAN TRAVELS
23 to 28 May
At last ALMA is afloat and we’ve gone cruising. ALMA’s mini re-fit over the winter wasn’t completed in February as planned - mostly as wet weather delayed the work on replacing the deck caulking. Thankfully this was paid for by Sika as the work done last year had been done with a batch of faulty Sika compound and after some discussions they agreed to pay for it to be completely re-done. But after many delays the re-launch eventually only happened 15 May!! And we still had other jobs to finish with the last job being completed only on the morning we left Malta! Andy, Doug and David had arrived 21 May for our annual cruise but we delayed departure by a day because of strong winds and also to get the final jobs done.
We (minus Helen who stayed behind as her Mum was in hospital and it seemed likely she would need to fly to the UK) set off on Sat 23rd heading across the Malta Channel to Sicily (approx 60 miles) and had a fast passage across the straits. the wind held up as we headed north along the east coast of Sicily towards Siracusa. Doug was keen to stop there but by a majority the decision was to keep going as long as the wind held. Around 3am we eventually ran out of wind and motored on to Riposto where we moored up around 10am just in time for coffee! Our first introduction to Italian culture - even though Riposto is a slightly scruffy commercial town that looks as if its best economic times were some years ago, the glamorous people were out on Sunday morning for coffee (and to be seen!). 4 old boys in their sailing shorts/shirts after 24 hours at sea felt distinctly unfashionable! For our first cultural trip we took the train to Taormina to see the magnificent Greek theatre. However we showed our lack of experience of travelling by failing to frank our tickets before boarding - severe admonishment from the guard but fortunately we were let off from a fine.
Monday we continued north to Reggio Calabria (on the mainland coast) for an overnight stop. We had quite a lively sail with a boisterous wind funnelling through the straits. sadly we didn’t have time to visit the museum there which has two wonderful greek bronze statues - but plan to see them on the return south.
Tuesday we headed through the straits of Messina, creeping along the shore to avoid the worst of the tide and passed Odysseus’ historic Charybdis whirlpool - although now its a relatively tame whirl after an earthquake apparently altered the seabed. I’d earlier texted Helen to ask the time of high tide Gibraltar which caused her to ask where we were going! The tides in the Messina straits are reported based on HW Gibraltar.
Next stop the Aeolian islands - the seven main islands are part of a volcanic ridge stretching from Etna to Vesuvius. I think the only one’s showing signs of life are Volcano which smokes almost continuously and Stromboli which from time to time pours out lava. Our first stop was Lipari - nice town with fabulous food shops, cafes, restaurants and (according to Doug and David) a great museum. The castle that now houses the museum was (I think in the 1930’s) Italy’s Alcatraz for political prisoners. Lipari is also the centre for cruising the Aeolian islands with ferries almost continuously coming and going - and so a rolly mooring!
Then we went on to what I think is the best of the islands - Salina. A truly beautiful island with a very relaxed, friendly ambience. Also famous for its capers and Malvasia wine. We also tried to visit Panarea but not able to anchor off the town and no buoys yet laid so we headed to Milazzo on the north coast of Sicily where Helen was arriving via Catania. Commercial town but still a nice centre and we had our best dinner of the trip - great finish to a great week’s cruising.
29th May to 5th June
After David, Doug and Andy jumped ship on Friday morning, Helen and I headed back to Lipari. Helen’s cruise started with a beat into 16 to 18 knots so it was quite a lively (but exhilarating) sail. We then continued to Salina and liked it so much we stayed 3 days! Great restaurants! But also as we’d arranged to meet friends Phil and Caroline (from Provence) there. They were cruising on another boat and we persuaded them to visit Salina. Great to catch up with them. Phil has sailed on ALMA several times and we’re both Endeavour sailors (the replica of Cook’s ship) (and fans of everything nautical/historical so have endless chats!).
Next stop Filcudi - second most westerly of the Aeolian islands. Not much happening on Filicudi. Main attraction is the remains of a bronze age village. Didn’t appear as if much has happened since but if you wanted somewhere extremely quiet to hide away this might be just the place.
Panarea is a significant contrast - equally attractive island but with much more life. The next Capri some say (well residents of Panarea). But apparently the wealthy escape from Milan and rome to relax in their villas on Panarea. And it is quite chic with some very good restaurants but yet delightfully retains its relaxed and unspoilt feel.
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