Sunday 10th - great sail from Methoni to Koroni with some interesting pilotage between the mainland and the islands where the depth suddenly goes from 80m to 5m - encourages some concentration on our transits to keep us in safe water. Koroni was a reasonably sheltered anchorage but the seabed was a mix of sand, weed and rocks. So for the first time we used a tripping line on the anchor in case it got caught in rocks. Fortunately the water is so clear you can see the bottom where you drop the anchor so with a bit of care can select a nice patch of sand. However, having anchored successfully we didn't have as much success with the dinghy outboard as we discovered a small O ring was missing from the fuel connection so the engine wouldn't run (and more worryingly fuel dripped out into the dinghy!). Of course we were anchored furthest out from the town of all the boats in the bay - so plenty of exercise rowing to town and back - must have looked hard work as another boat offered to tow us! Monday 11th - decided to head to Kalamata at the north end of the large bay as strong winds were forecast and it would be easier rounding the next cape when the wind had died down a bit. Also we wanted to visit the world famous caves at diros (we'd not heard of them before but apparently they are some of the best in the world). Actually the caves turned out to be great - really felt they could be the entrance to the underworld (even the boatman seemed the part) although this is reported to be further south (certainly seems to be in Greece). Also the drive down the Mani peninsula was marvellous - what a rugged, isolated mountainous area and no wonder the Spartans were so tough and even the romans apparently failed to subdue this area. Kalamata however was a disappointment - fat black olives excepted - rebuilt after an earthquake in 1968 in bland square blocks and somehow made me think of McCarthy's "The Road" as we walked through the deserted streets. Here for the first time we got a sense of the economic problems with closed shops, graffiti and empty restaurants. Only highlight was a lovely restaurant on the quayside where we watched the football and chatted to the owner (we were the only customers sadly) about his impending retirement - 105 days to go! Hope the tourists arrive in July/August to give him some business before he retires.